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Wednesday, August 4, 2010

French fashion in Paris

Read the online "lecture" on dress in the period 1789-1825 below and click on any links that interest you. You are not required to read all the material on all the links, however:

Dress in The French Revolution and Empire Periods

This time frame from 1789-1825 is actually several different sub-periods. The first, 1789-1799, the period of The French Revolution, is a sharp transition period. The second 1800-1815 is the time of the French Consulate and Empire, and is a stable Neo-classical period. 1815-1825 is the late Neo-classical period that shows a gradual shift towards the Romantic style.

Dress in The French Revolution

Dress during this period goes through a massive shift. Late 18th Century women's dress collapses from it's padded and puffed look to a thin, often translucent silhouette. As the French Revolution progressed, different women's styles were adopted that appeared to have reference to the revolutionary politics, social structure and philosophy of the time. In the early 1790's, for example, the "English" or man-tailored style was favored as it hinted towards the leanings of constitutional monarchy. There was a brief fashion for plain dresses in dark colors during the Terror of 1792, but when the Directory took over French fashion again went wild, trying out "Rousseauesque" fashions in "Greek", "Roman", "Sauvage" and "Otaheti" (Tahitian) styles.

Dress a'la Greque (Hoey)

The Psudo-"Greek" look proved most popular and was adopted as the standard style in Europe in the late 1790's

While Men's Costume in the 1790's also becomes thinner in line, it separates it's style from women's dress by beginning to lose nearly all forms of surface decoration, lace and bright color, as "irrational" and feminine effluvia. This change is slow, but it completely alters men's dress by the mid 19th Century into dull dark uniform dress.

Other major changes include the adoption of trousers from the dress of sailors and the urban proletariat of the French Revolution, the passing of the fashions for wigs and hair powder, and the (very temporary) demise of the corset.

The bonnet is invented as a hat that is meant to look like a Greek helmet, but it quickly is altered in style out of all resemblance to the original.

Bonnets from "Wiener Zeitschrift", Vienna, 1820 in Max von Boehn's Modes and Manners of the 19th Century

The Neoclassical Period 1800-1825

Probably due to post Revolutionary backlash against female influence in politics, later reinforced by the German Philosopher Schopenhauer (who promoted the view that men were supposed to be rational and women emotional), the sexual dichotomy in dress becomes more pronounced in this era, a trend which continues through the 19th Century. The direction of fashions towards Neo Classic dress for women, and increasingly drab utilitarian dress on men, continue in a steady manner in this very stylistically stable period.

1807 1809

Women's dress locks into a pattern of light colored muslin gowns, high waisted with little puffed sleeves, and psudo-Greek hairstyles, which achieved an apex at the coronation of the Emperor Napoléon in 1804.

Napoleon's sisters at his coronation.

As the period proceeds, the originally simple lines of these gowns are increasingly decorated with ruffles and puffs, the skirts get puffed out with petticoats, the waist lowers and tightens with corsets, until by 1825 it is hard to see how the style worn was ever imagined to look Greek.

1822 Vienna from Max von Boehn's Das Beiwerk der Mode, 1928



Men's dress also keeps on a fairly steady course towards increasing dullness. Fashion magazines continue to push men's dress towards foppish extremes, but men who actually count in the fashionable world tend to push for plainer styles. Beau Brummell, the leader of male sartorial fashion in England in this period was noted for wearing only black with a white shirt for formal evening wear, a marked departure from the style of the previous century. Tubular and fitted trousers also move from a radical fashion statement to everyday wear for most men of the upper classes.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Top 10: Fashionable Singers

Many singers & performers are not only talented vocalists but also known for their fashion sense. As a singer these celebrities are often on stage performing in front of their fans and not only is their voice important but the way they present them self to the world.

As a singer and public figure the image and persona that celebrities portray is everything. They become a brand and to be successful they needed to create a niche for themselves vocally and visually. The more creative they are and the more they push the envelope the more their fans will be intrigued with them and look forward to their appearances and performances. Everything from the words that come out of their mouth to the choreography they do on the stage to the shoes they wear on their feet need to be though out and planned.



Singers not only have the world singing along with their songs but they have us wanting to dress like them as well. Who could forget the 80's and everyone wearing black lace and gloves to look like Madonna? In the ninties hip-hop and rap was at the forefront and TLC and Criss Cross had kids wearing bright colored baggy clothes...and some even started wearing their pants backwards. It was in this decade that Nirvana had even me wearing flannel shirts and Doc Martins. Now with the end of that era and with the 2000's here, the mix of all cutures and styles is here and singers from all different categories have us dressing Mod, Preppy, Geometric, and layered.


Here is my list of my Top 10 Fashionable Singers that have inspired me. (In no particular order...)

Who are some of your favorites??? 
 

1  madonna
2 Michael Jackson
3  Gwen Stefani
4  Cher

5  Andre 3000
6 Posh
7  Beyonce
8  David Bowie
9  Lady GaGa
10  Tina Turner

Monday, July 12, 2010

Jay-Z and the Occult Connections

Jay-Z takes aim at all those who have questioned his spirituality on the new Rick Ross song "Free Mason". At the top of the year, while on New York radio, Jay dismissed rumors that he was a member of the illuminati, worshiped the devil and had Satanic images in the video for "On to the Next One".


"I was a roadie on the Blueprint 3 tour for a few dates," Ross said in May of how the song came about. "It started off in St. Louis. I was just messing with everybody, kicking it with everybody, letting Jay hear my ideas and concepts. When you get the deluxe version of this album, we documented when I played the record. I played the track and my first verse," Ross recalled. "I put in the PS3 behind the stage.


"Played it, [Jay] listened to it," he continued. "We played it, backed it up, played it again. Played it, backed it up, played it again. Backed it up, and he spit his verse. It's gonna be magic for people to see Jay do his 'Rain [Man]' when he's rubbing his head, like he pulling his rhymes outta his mind. Just to see somebody come up with a verse that potent in less than two or three minutes ... 'cause it was just a snippet. The beat may have played for a minute and a half and started over," a process Ross says was repeated a few times as Jay composed. "He had his 16, an idea for the chorus. Trey Songz, all of us standing around in awe."


in addition


Jay-Z’s latest video called “Run This Town” (featuring Rihanna and Kanye West) contains occult symbolism relating to secret societies. It has been long rumored that Jay-Z is part of some sort of occult order (probably Freemasonry) due to the hints slipped in his songs and his imagery. ”Run This Town” certainly adds fuel to the fire. We’ll look at the symbolism in this song and in his clothing line, Rocawear.

Lady Gaga's Insurance Company Wants Nothing To Do With Lady Gaga


 


 


Bosses at Lady Gaga 's insurance company have filed court documents in New York distancing themselves from the singer's legal battle with a former producer - to ensure they aren't liable for damages if she loses the case.



Rob Fusari, Gaga's former mentor and ex-boyfriend, is suing the star for $35 million, claiming he helped his former lover come up with her stage name and played a key part in landing her a record deal with Interscope.



Fusari maintains he held a 20 per cent share in his company with Gaga, Team Love Child LLC, and argues she failed to adequately compensate him for his shares in the firm once she gained worldwide recognition.



The "Poker Face hitmaker has hit back with a countersuit, accusing Fusari of taking advantage of her naivety as a wannabe pop star.



Now executives at her insurers Navigators Speciality Insurance Company have waded into the lawsuit. Lawyers representing the firm filed a motion in court on Thursday asking the presiding judge to issue a declaratory judgment because Gaga's policy does not cover breach of contract claims, reports TMZ.com.



The legal papers state Gaga's policy only pays for "an act or omission including personal injury in the performance of professional services."